Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Normandy Day 2 - Utah Beach, St. Mere Eglise

10/20/2014
Utah Beach

When I asked Dad to research which places he wanted to go to in Normandy, he replied, “Omaha and Utah.” Uhhh…that’s it? We drive 3 hours to see two beaches?! So I asked Angel to do some research of where she wanted to go and she rose to the challenge. She had a whole packet put together of different D-Day sights and museums. But based on how long we spent at Pointe du Hoc and Omaha Beach yesterday, we knew we wouldn’t be able to see everything. Our original plans had to be scrapped and last night, we narrowed down where we wanted to hit today. I think you’d need at least a full week here to do the region justice, especially if you’re a WWII buff. We started at Utah Beach today because we weren’t sure how long it would take, and boy, are we glad we did. By the time we got out of the museum (we don’t wear watches so no clue of time), it was already 3pm. We spent 4 hours in there!

Utah Beach Memorial

This museum would not be possible if it wasn’t for the determination of one Frenchman. During WWII, the Allies bombed his farm and he sustained heavy injuries. The Americans tended to his injuries and helped evacuate him to England, where he was able to make a full recovery. He eventually returned to his hometown and was elected mayor. Instead of harboring grudges against the Allies for his injuries, he spent his life reaching out to WWII veterans, building friendships with them, and advocating and funding a museum, which eventually became known as the Utah Beach museum.

The right wing of Utah Beach Museum

Back in the early 2000s, the Lieutenant Governor of Texas and his brother visited the Utah Beach museum with their families. They knew their father had fought in WWII, but their father died in a car accident when the brothers were very young, so they never knew what he did during the war. They looked through the photographs on display in the museum, and lo and behold, there was their father! David Dewhurst, their father, served as a fighter pilot, making countless daring raids during the war. On D-Day, David Dewhurst led the final bombing run on Utah Beach. Flying at extremely low altitudes, they had only two minutes to drop the bombs behind enemy lines on Utah Beach—their timing had to be exactly precise. Any later than that, they’d be dropping the bombs on their own military—the Allies would be storming Utah Beach at that time.

Captured German bunker

Paratroopers had landed the night before to secure the 4 causeways out of Utah Beach—this was vital to transport supplies and to make sure the Germans couldn’t send reinforcements out to the beach. Because it was dark and they couldn’t see, many fell miles from where they were supposed to land. One landed on a cathedral rooftop and was taken POW by the Germans. Others fell into the flooded marshlands (the Germans flooded it to hamper the Allies) and drowned, because they were carrying up to 90 lbs of equipment and it was too heavy to move around. The others who did survive the jump had little “crickets” that they would click to identify each other. Anyone who didn’t respond with two clicks, they were ordered to shoot down. They didn’t use code words because some generals felt the younger troops might forget the words and they’d end shooting their own men.

Utah Beach

If you only have a day in Normandy, I’d highly recommend the Utah Beach museum. Because of the TLC of the community and countless others, the museum has gone through several renovations and expansions—it now stores over 3000 WWII artifacts that veterans have donated through the years. After the Lieutenant Governor of Texas and his brother saw their dad there on display, they led the effort to raise millions of dollars to refurbish the museum yet again. It opened, brand new, in 2011, with a new theatre and a room to display a B-26 aircraft, much like the plane their dad used to fly. The B-26 used to be called the “Widow Maker” because when it was first introduced, it was highly unreliable. Many pilots died in training, trying to fly the plane. By D-Day, however, it became a highly respected aircraft for the ability to navigate tricky turns quickly and effortlessly.


LST Landing Ship Tank was nicknamed “Large Slow Target” because it moved so slowly. There was a landing craft on display. These flat-bottomed ships were used to take the soldiers to shore.


As we drove along the countryside, we saw a lot of hedgerows that were much like the ones the soldiers had to fight through during WWII. Now, they look so innocuous, but back then, they proved deadly for the soldiers. Thorn-laced, the hedgerows concealed Germany army and cannons. One such hedgerow concealed 4 deadly cannons and a whole trench full of Germans. One paratrooper, Dick Winters, after landing and congregating with other paratroopers, could only see the general direction the German bullets were coming from, as the German uniform was very good at concealing the soldiers in the hedgerows. So Dick Winters directed two of the men to return fire while the others went around back to flank the Germans. When they reached the enemy trench, they found a lot of German bodies. The rest surrendered and they were able to capture the cannons and German maps of Utah Beach. Dick Winters’s directive is still studied at West Point for its excellent strategizing.


There were a pair of boots on display. These were boots given to higher ranks of German soldiers, as they were extremely warm, which proved very useful in Russia. However, the felt used to line these boots came from the hair of Jews in concentration camps:


The museum also had a fitting tribute for the fallen men of Exercise Tiger. In preparation for D-Day, many ships took part of this exercise on the English Channel close to England’s shores. The sudden outbreak of radio activity led the Germans to become suspicious of what was happening there, so they sent 3 torpedo ships to investigate. Alarmed, these ships discharged torpedoes at the Allies. When the torpedoes went straight under the ships (these were flat-bottomed ships that were transporting stuff), the Germans realized the Allies weren’t armed (it was just a training exercise, after all), so they commenced to direct heavy fire, as in cannons, at the Allies. Over 700 men died that day. But the Allies did not want this information getting out, as it would let the Germans know the extent of the damage. And, being so close to D-Day, the Allies didn’t want their soldiers’ morale to nosedive, so the press was forbidden to report about Exercise Tiger.  

Military advertisement to get men to join

The Comanche Indians also had a mention here. Based on their own language, the Code Talkers created a code for the Allies that was unbreakable by the Germans. Hitler was coded as “Crazy White Man.”


B-26 plane

Tom Hanks showed up in 2001 for their annual memorial ceremony. --Angel's contribution


A soldier had this prayer book on him while he was fighting in WWII. A bullet ricocheted off his rifle and lodged into this prayer book, which was located in his chest pocket.

The small book saved his life:


We read many such stories of men, wearing items/talismans, and bullets hitting those items instead of their bodies, saving them from harm.

Tank




After Utah Beach, we drove to St. Mere Eglise to see the church where John Steele, a paratrooper, landed on the clock tower. He pretended to be dead, but the Germans took him down and took him prisoner. His actions are detailed in the movie The Longest Day.

St. Mere Eglise - can you see the paratrooper hanging from the rooftop?


We drove to Leader Price in Bayeux, where Angel bought sables butter cookies. Sables are a specialty of the Normandy region, as the region is known for its butter. She really liked them, though it does taste a bit like shortbread cookies.

Then we went to E LeClerc (our favorite!) to buy puff-pastry pizza for dinner. We got 3 different flavors this time. The first one is the one we got on our first day here. We also got a goat cheese with bell peppers and a ham with Reblochon cheese and potatoes. 

Apparently real Reblochon is illegal in the US because it's aged less than 60 days and uses raw milk (vs pasteurized). From Wikipedia: "Reblochon derives from the word 'reblocher' which when literally translated means 'to pinch a cow's udder again'."

Thin-crust pizza with chevre and bell peppers

Thin-crust pizza with ham, potato and Roblechon cheese



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