Friday, October 30, 2015

London Day 6 – Walthamstow Market, VAT tax refund hassle


10/17/2015

Walthamstow means “The Place of Welcome” and welcome us, it did. Dating back to 1885, it’s the longest outdoor street market in Europe. Open 8am-5pm Tuesday thru Saturday, it really can take a whole day to shop. The pedestrian-only street sells everything from home décor to clothing (men’s and women’s), perfume to product (cheap fruit!) to fabric. And boy did Angel load up on fabrics. Some fabrics were as cheap as 50 pence/meter. The most expensive one she bought was 4 pounds/meter, which, for the quality and design, would be about $20/yard at JoAnn’s.

There’s storefronts lining the street as well as stalls in the middle, so she really had her pick of bolts upon bolts. Our end haul ended up collectively weighing about 18 kg. We lugged it all the way from Walthamstow to Bond Street tube station (including the strenuous change in tube lines) to back home. Whew. I know my back will be killing me tomorrow. Not as young as I used to be!

One stall selling Indian food had crazy lines lining up on both sides of the cart. The menu had a chicken tikka masala wrap that sounded interesting and I wanted to try it, but I was still pretty full from breakfast. So, next time!!! There’s chicken doner restaurants here too, so gotta check those out next time as well. Breakfast, by the way, was a very delicious combo of mini meat pies and ground pork with hard-boiled egg encased in a scrumptious puff pastry. 

Last year when we went, I wasn’t that impressed with the selection of clothes sold here, though Angel bought a whole boatload of fabrics. This year, they’ve upped their game. The stalls are selling current season—current season—clothes from Primark, Marks & Spencer’s, H&M, Zara. The blouses we saw this morning at Primark? 10 pounds. At Walthamstow, the exact same blouse is 8 pounds. They do sell last season name brands and those usually have a more significant discount. Angel saw a shirt she bought from H&M back in April this year. She bought it for $20. At Walthamstow? 3 pounds! Sure, they only had X-Small left, but still…

Angel’s been making croissant sandwiches throughout London for the times we need to eat on the go. I look forward to these meals because they are the best damn sandwiches I’ve ever eaten. Waitrose and Sainsbury’s sells these cheese & onion or cheese & chive dips that are so, so utterly delicious. The cheese they use is Red Leicester, a cheese we tasted for the first time in Edinburgh last year. It promptly became our new favorite cheese. Sometimes we’ll buy more Red Leicester (cheese in the UK is cheap!), chop it up into tiny cubes and add it into the dip. Then Angel will mix in prawns, then stuff this whole yummy concoction into a croissant. Best. Meal. Ever.

There’s a storefront there called Femme that’s kind of like Style in the US, but the quality’s a whole lot better. Better than Forever 21, I’d say. There’s dresses in there for 5-10 pounds and I seriously wanted to get everything there.

And if you like shopping supermarkets, you’ve hit the motherload here. Every grocery store lining the street is absolutely massive. You can find Lidl, Sainsbury’s, Iceland (specializes in frozen foods like frozen dinners, but we found high-quality Scottish shortbread cookies here on the cheap too). Wilko is an IKEA/Target-like store for home décor. We started shopping around 1:30pm and didn’t realize the time passing until 6pm. Yikes! We had to be at Bond Street before 8pm, so it started a mad(ish) dash back to the Walthamstow Central tube station.

At Lidl, we could not believe our eyes:


A whole jamon serrano leg for 30 pounds! Cream of venison soup for 2.49! Where do you even get this stuff in the US??? Oh wait, you can't.


Angel had to go to the bathroom at this point, though since Walthamstow’s an outdoor market, it’d be pretty tough to find one. As we walked by an indoor complex, I realized it was a mall. I suggested going inside to see if there’s a bathroom. Turns out, not only are there multiple bathrooms, there’s a food court and a gigantic supermarket called Asda that Angel and I have never heard of. They make millionaire bites and milk chocolate-enrobed flapjacks as well. We thought it was cheaper than Sainsbury’s because of the count per box, so we bought a dozen boxes. Only to come home and realize that Sainsbury’s is actually cheaper when you factor in total weight. Guess we lugged home 7.5 pounds for nothing. The taste is pretty comparable to Sainsbury’s, except the texture of the flapjack isn’t as moist and you can’t taste each individual kernel. The caramel for the millionaire bite is creamier and thicker, but not as sweet. So I think we’ll stick with good ole trusty Sainsbury’s.

We arrived at the Bond Street tube station around 7pm. The International Currency Exchange (ICE) on Oxford Street (across from Zara, the Disney Store and just past Thornton’s Chocolates) has very finicky business hours for when and when they will not process VAT tax refunds—even though it’s the same person working the booth during off-hours! We’d gone there around 12:30pm earlier today after some last-stop shopping at Primark. The guy working the booth said they are open 8am-noon then 6-8pm every day. Argh. So it meant we had to come back even though it’s out of the way for us to go back. 

Angel's haul

We come back at 7pm and it’s the same guy working the booth. Now he’s processing VAT refunds. The guy in front of us has bought so much stuff at Debenham’s, his VAT refund is in the hundreds of pounds! We’re eligible for a 64 pound refund, but the processing office deducts 20 pounds for “processing,” which means we end up with a 44 pound refund. If you want it in cash, that’s another 2.70 pound fee per refund form. So make sure you claim it all in one go. Don’t get a refund form for every single receipt—wait until you’re done shopping, consolidate all the receipts, then go get the refund form from the retailer. The higher the amount, the higher the refund scale (ie. 100 pounds in purchases will net you a 9%-ish refund while 400 pound will get you 12%).

In short:

Shop til you drop. Keep your receipts.

When you’re finally all shopped out, take your receipts to the customer service desk of whichever retailer you purchased your goods from. Since we purchased everything from Primark, we went to the upper floor to their customer service desk.

The cashier will ask to see your passport and credit card. They’ll total up all your receipts, input it into the computer, and out comes a long-ass receipt form for the VAT refund. The cashier will stamp the form to your receipts and put this in a VAT envelope. Never, ever seal this envelope, as doing so will invalidate your claim!

You fill out the appropriate lines on the form. The person who paid for the purchases does not have to be the person claiming the refund, ie. I paid for everything using my credit card, but Angel will be the one claiming the refund.

At this point, you either go to the Customs desk at the airport you’re flying out of to get the customs stamp, then go to another line to get the refund, or you go to one of these ICE locations (Primark uses Global Blue, and ICE processes Global Blue refunds. Different retailers will use different VAT processors, but I think there’s only 2 processors) for the refund.

If you go to ICE, you will still need to get the customs stamp at the airport, but at least you won’t have to wait in yet another long line for the refund. Someone online said the refund line at Heathrow took him 2 hours!

So we chose option #2. We also chose to get the refund immediately in cash, even though there’s a 2.70 fee. This is because the Primark customer service said that many times, if you’re off by even 1 number while copying down your credit card number on the form, they’ll reject your claim and you won’t get your refund. Cash is immediate. But be careful. There’s a steep 50 pound fee if your claim is rejected. And it can be rejected for multiple reasons: writing illegible. Failure to show your purchases at the customs desk. Which completely sucks because it means opening your suitcase at the airport for them to inspect when you’ve already packed it to your complete and utter satisfaction.

Now that we have cash in hand, Angel, Mom and Dad will need to go to the airport customs desk to get the customs stamp. Then they will need to locate the Customs mailbox to drop off the form and receipts in that unsealed VAT envelope I mentioned earlier.

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